Costuming On A Budget

<BODY BGCOLOR="#000000" TEXT="#C0C0C0" LINK="#FFFF00" VLINK="#808080"> <TABLE WIDTH="400" BORDER="0" CELLPADDING="0" CELLSPACING="0"> <TR> <TD> <P ALIGN="CENTER"><IMG SRC="../images/mhb1.jpg" ALT="Magic Horizons Title Graphic" ALIGN="BOTTOM" WIDTH="398" HEIGHT="162"></P> <H2>Costuming On A Budget</H2> <P>Costuming greatly enhances the game. It adds a splash of color, and an air of verisimilitude to the experience of playing in a Live Action Roleplaying Game.</P> <P>As many a costumer can attest, it's easy to blow a lot of money into costuming. Velvet, brocades and fancy trims can add a lot to a costume, and can detract a lot from your bank balance. The purpose of this article is to get you into an acceptable, comfortable costume with the smallest possible expenditure.</P> <HR> <DL> <DT><A HREF="#tunic" TARGET="Main">The Basic Tunic</A></DT> <DT><A HREF="#leggings" TARGET="Main">Leggings</A></DT> <DT><A HREF="#cape" TARGET="Main">The Half-Circle Cape</A></DT> <DT><A HREF="#headgear" TARGET="Main">Headgear</A></DT> <DT><A HREF="#footgear" TARGET="Main">Footgear</A></DT> <DT><A HREF="#armor" TARGET="Main">Armor</A></DT></DL> <HR> <H4><A NAME="tunic"></A>The Basic Tunic</H4> <P>There are two routes for getting upper torso covering: The first is to go to Land's End and buy one of their poet shirts, for about $25-$40. This will get you a loose-fitting, billowy shirt that looks vaguely medieval.</P> <P>The second is the basic T-tunic, which requires some sewing.</P> <P>To make the T-tunic, you'll need a 60 inch wide bolt of fabric. In a pinch, an old table-cloth will do handily. You'll need to make the following measurements on yourself: </P> <P>Your "yoke" measurement: The length from your wrist bone to your wrist bone with your arms straight out at shoulder level, running across the back your neck.</P> <P>Your "sideseam" measurement: The distance from your arm-pit to roughly mid-thigh.</P> <P>Fold the fabric over, width-wise. The width of the bolt should (ideally) be equal or greater than your yoke measurement.</P> <P>Use chalk to mark an outline of a T. The arms of the T should be as thick as your arm is wide. These will be the sleeves of your tunic. The trunk of the T should be wide enough that you can put your body through it. This will be the main part of your tunic.</P> <P>Pin the folded fabric together. Cut along the chalk lines. Decide which side of the fabric is the inside, which is the outside, and turn it inside out. Sew along the lines you just cut. Cut a slit across the top of the tunic where your head will go, and cut a smaller perpendicular slit to it on the front. Punch grommets through the smaller slit in the front, and thread laces through it.</P> <P>If you're feeling up to it, stitch on some decorative trim along the neck, cuffs and hem.</P> <P>Extending your sideseam length will result in a caftan (knee length), or a robe (mid to lower calves.)</P> <P>If your fabric bolt isn't wide enough for a simple T-tunic (measure yourself before you buy it!), there are countless Simplicity patterns for simple four piece shirts which can be modified into tunics. If, like me, you have an innate fear of trying to cut and sew to a pattern, it's often a good idea to find someone who does this as a hobby and offer to do their yardwork.</P> <P>Another alternative to the T-tunic, for those with a narrow bolt of fabric, is the sleeveless T-tunic, worn over something inconspicuous. The instructions are the same, only the width of the fabric only needs to be from your shoulder bones to your shoulder bones. Obviously, varying the width of your yoke measurement will result in anything from a long-sleeve tunic to a sleeveless jumper.</P> <P><A NAME="leggings"></A></P> <H4>Leggings</H4> <P>The absolute simplest form of leggings is a pair of wool cycling tights, or dance tights. They typically cost between $10 and $15 for a pair, are reasonably durable, and don't restrict your movement much. Another reasonable alternative is a pair of martial arts pants, cut from cotton. (Word to the wise: Don't take white.)</P> <P>Barring that, the alternative is a pair of Troll Pants.</P> <P>Troll pants are essentially a pair of sweats made from something other than cotton fleece. You'll need your waist measurement, your inseam measurement, your outseam measurement, your crotch height and the circumference of the thickest part of your thigh.</P> <P>Take your fabric and fold it over, lengthwise. The fold is your "outseam". On the side that <EM>isn't</EM> folded, make a chalk line that goes up a length equal to your inseam . Curve that chalk line out about 3 inches, then go straight up until the top of that line is equal to the length of your outerseam, plus 3 inches. Repeat, on another length of fabric. In order to ensure that each piece of the garment is symmetrical, use the first piece you cut as a template for the second.</P> <P>Sew the crotch seam, then sew the inseams. Fold the extra three inches at the top over, around a piece of nylon cord, and stitch it shut, using the cord as a drawstring. You should now have something that looks like a pair of loose-legged sweatpants, turned inside out.</P> <P><A NAME="cape"></A></P> <H4>The Half-Circle Cape</H4> <P>The half-circle cape is a simple way to conceal flaws in other costuming. Measure the distance from your neck to however far you want your cape to come down. (Mid-thigh works well), and cut out a half-circle of fabric with the radius of the half-circle equal to that length. Cut a notch in the middle for your neck to go through, and use a pin to close it.</P> <P><A NAME="headgear"></A></P> <H4>Headgear</H4> <P>Finding headgear is reasonably simple. Single-piece felt fedoras are actually a period design, as are straw sun-hats. Loose cable-knit or macrame head coverings can serve as snoods, or, spray-painted silver, can pass as a reasonable physical representation of a chainmail camail.</P> <P><A NAME="footgear"></A></P> <H4>Footgear</H4> <P>Finding comfortable, wearable footgear that one can run or fight in is tricky. Some hints: Dockers are actually based on a pattern that dates back to the 12th century. Closed-toe moccasins also work well, as do some suede slippers. Cavalry boots can sometimes be found cheap at discount stores, and floppy leather boots are readily available at science fiction and fantasy conventions. Leather bootlaces can add the finishing touch on footgear that's close.</P> <P>When you're selecting footgear, look at it from the perspective of the terrain you'll be walking, running and fighting through. Make sure the footgear has a sturdy sole, and enough arch support.</P> <H4><A NAME="armor"></A>Armor</H4> <P>Real armor is not required, and in many cases, can be a hazard. If your game permits it, and you're willing to run 10 miles in it in the blazing sun, feel free.</P> <P>If, like most people, you're a bit more sane, reasonable armor reps can be made from just about anything. Quilting some brown fabric makes a decent phys rep for leather armor. Gluing on a regular pattern of metal buttons, or stitching them on, can work for studded leather. Spray painted macrame can pass as a phys rep for chain mail. Cut up sections of plastic barrel, spray painted silver and attached to a vest can work nicely as a faux lorica for plate mail.</P> <H4>Conclusion</H4> <P>This article is the bare minimum for getting interesting looking costuming. If anyone wants to write a longer, more detailed article (with graphics), feel free to email the author at the link at the bottom of the page.</P> <TABLE BORDER="0" CELLPADDING="0" CELLSPACING="0"> <TR> <TD><A><IMG SRC="../images/left_h.jpg" ALT="Left End Of Scroll Bar" WIDTH="32" HEIGHT="116"></A></TD> <TD><A HREF="../info/info_toc.html" TARGET="_top"><IMG SRC="../images/info_h_n.jpg" ALT="[Logistics]" ALIGN="BOTTOM" BORDER="0" WIDTH="45" HEIGHT="116" NAME="info"></A></TD> <TD><A HREF="../game/game_toc.html" TARGET="_top"><IMG SRC="../images/game_h_n.jpg" ALT="[Game Info]" ALIGN="BOTTOM" BORDER="0" WIDTH="60" HEIGHT="116" NAME="game"></A></TD> <TD><A HREF="../misc/misc_toc.html" TARGET="_top"><IMG SRC="../images/misc_h_n.jpg" ALT="[Miscellaneous Information]" ALIGN="BOTTOM" BORDER="0" WIDTH="62" HEIGHT="116" NAME="misc"></A></TD> <TD><A HREF="../faq.html" TARGET="_top"><IMG SRC="../images/faq_h_n.jpg" ALT="[Frequently Asked Questions]" BORDER="0" WIDTH="58" HEIGHT="116" NAME="faq"></A></TD> <TD><A HREF="../new.html" TARGET="_top"><IMG SRC="../images/new_h_n.jpg" ALT="[What's New]" ALIGN="BOTTOM" BORDER="0" WIDTH="52" HEIGHT="116" NAME="whatsNew"></A></TD> <TD><A HREF="../index.html" TARGET="_top"><IMG SRC="../images/home_h_n.jpg" ALT="[Magic Horizons Home Page]" ALIGN="BOTTOM" BORDER="0" WIDTH="59" HEIGHT="116" NAME="home"></A></TD> <TD><IMG SRC="../images/right_h.jpg" ALT="Right End Of Scroll Bar" WIDTH="22" HEIGHT="116"></TD></TR></TABLE> <P>Problems with the page? Email <a HREF="mailto:burnside@itis.com">Ken Burnside</a>.</P></TD></TR></TABLE></BODY>